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TMG Investigates: What Exactly is a BB Cream and Can it be Used on Fair or Dark Skin??

March 5, 2012 by 18 Comments

I am glad you asked!!! The short answer is yes…but.  The longer answer goes something like this.  I have seen BB Creams around for YEARS, especially in Asia where they have risen to cult status.  They are essentially tinted moisturizers with added goodies like anti aging skincare, primer and SPF. The “BB” stands for blemish balm or beauty balm.  These super hybrid multitasker creams (you know I love a good multitasker!!) were originally used to speed healing after laser treatments. The craze really took off in Korea when actresses attributed their flawless skin to the product. In short, BB Creams help to even out the skin, camouflage pores and wrinkles, moisturize, reduce redness, even out skintone, keep oil in check, offer anti-aging benefits, and shield skin from the sun.  That’s a lot for just one little tube right?? What’s not to love??

BBCreams TMG Investigates: What Exactly is a BB Cream and Can it be Used on Fair or Dark Skin??Now available stateside….this product is a phenomenon but not without faults, most notably lack of shade range.  Now…there are other products that are similar to beauty balms like my current favorite, NARS Pure Radiant Tinted Moisturizer.  This wondercream isn’t being marketed as a BB Cream BUT it definitely has the extra goodies (like Advanced SPF, brighteners etc.) and shade range that women with fair to dark skin will love.  You can always add a bit of primer and turn it into a BB Cream if you want. Like I said before, the biggest issue is shade range….

So…what’s a girl to do if you are fair or dark skinned beauty (or anywhere in between)??  If you are fair skinned, be wary of the light/medium versions. I would look for a FAIR option instead (I listed some below that will work).  Now onto the topic of shade range, for the most part…most of the mass marketed BB Creams I have tried and tested do only come in one shade:  Light/Medium. Through my research, I have read many a comment/story from fair skinned ladies that most of the light/medium options were just too dark.  Alternatively, I have read some misinformation for darker skinned girls telling them to use the light/medium options anyway and add their foundation on top.  Make no mistake ladies, if you are a woman with ANY kind of yellow, orange or red undertones in your skin or have tan/olive skin, these light/medium options will look GREY on you and will be made worse by the addition of your foundation on top (there are actually a few videos on youtube like this showcasing exactly what I am talking about), so I wouldn’t bother with them AT ALL.  To that end, there are several brands that are making more of a shade range, most of the ones that have made true strides are located in Europe.  Speaking of Europe, my girl India-Jewel Jackson over at Glamour.com just picked up one in Milan that she says disappears into her chestnut complexion beautifully so you can check that one out.  Below are a list of BB Creams available stateside that I have tested that are available in more shades.

The Rundown:

  • Garnier Miracle Skin Perfector B.B. Cream A great drugstore option, this comes in Light/Medium and Medium/Dark.  Both are fine for most complexions (Note: The medium/dark still isn’t REALLY all that dark).
  • Clinique Age Defense BB Cream SPF 30 A great option for FAIR skin – they have recently added another shade 03 that is supposed to be for dark skin but sadly it’s not even dark enough for me.
  • Smashbox Camera Ready BB Cream SPF 35  FANTASTIC BB Cream with shade options from Fair to Dark and several in between (this is the best option so far for just about everyone)
  • Missha BB Cream A great option if you are between a tan to a medium shade, plus they have several formulations depending on your needs.
  • Dr. Jart Premium Beauty Balm SPF 45 PA+++  This AMAZING BB Cream comes in one shade only. It’s kind of nude-ish sheer so this one I would mix with your own foundation to achieve the shade you want.

If you have tried any or all of these and you are still on the fence, the best solution is for you to make your own BB cream (this goes for fair skinned girls too). I have been making versions of them using tinted moisturizer for years by mixing in the palm of my hand.  You can do the same thing in a small jar.  This is a great way for you to make a custom batch of your own BB Cream to use over a specific amount of time.

Stay Pretty!!

photo credit:  Sephora

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About Lianne

Lianne Farbes is the Publisher and Editor In Chief of TheMakeupGirl. She is a Beauty Expert with over 20 years of experience working with makeup and skincare and has held every retail beauty position from sales girl to counter manager. She has made a living as a professional makeup artist and continues to spread her beauty knowledge through seminars and speaking engagements throughout the US. You can follow Lianne on twitter at @LianneFarbes or beauty related tweets at @TheMakeupgirl Follow us on Instagram at @MakeupGirlBlog for swatches and other cool pics too!

  • http://www.socialitedreams.com/ Socialitedreams

    as usual, most companies figure everyone is light skinned.  smashbox was the only brand that I saw with anything even partially acceptable for brown tones.  

  • http://www.liannefarbes.com/about Lianne

    Yep…Smashbox is the only one right now with a real range. Did you watch the video on how to make your own?!

  • http://www.socialitedreams.com/ Socialitedreams

    I did…but i know that I always say that I WILL make stuff and then turn lazy and just prefer to buy it premade lol. I leave the DIY stuff to others, so I think that it’s shameful that companies make it where I dont have options unless I’m light skinned.

  • http://www.liannefarbes.com/about Lianne

     Very true…very true.  I updated to add one that IJJ from glamour.com got from Milan that works for her and she definitely has chestnut hued skin.

  • http://www.delectablychic.com CynthiaC.M.

    On the shades issue:  I bought Bobbi Brown’s BB Cream when I was in Hong Kong over Christmas
    (not available in North America yet).  It only comes in three shades,
    with the darkest shade called “light” (the shades correspond with her
    tinted moisturizers).  While the tones probably work in most parts of
    East Asia, it surely doesn’t in North America!  I have dark-ish skin for
    Chinese, so while “light” works okay for me in the winter, I’m
    definitely going to be too dark for it in the summer! Because BB Creams are still in their early stages of entering North America many are probably still transitioning from an East Asia-only market.

    On what I’ve tried: Bobbi is good, but Clinique was a little hard to blend.

  • Lescandy

    I got a sample from Smashbox in Deep and it matches my skin perfect. The Garnier version was a grey mess as you mentioned. I probably wont do the mix my own version, I get lazy too ha! 

  • http://www.liannefarbes.com/about Lianne

    Thanks for that info Cynthia!  I think with some time and feedback for companies they will get it right eventually.  The sunscreen makes it look super grey, which is why I love the NARS one I mentioned.  I add some primer to that and voila BB Cream.

  • http://www.liannefarbes.com/about Lianne

    Awww, I understand about feeling lazy LOL.  Good thing Smashbox matches you!!

  • http://muslimahbeauty.com/ Hafsa

    A lot of these brands aren’t readily available in the UK which is a shame but once I’m in America very soon, I’m getting my hands on these BB Creams as the UK hasn’t quite caught up with the USA market for darker skinned ladies!

  • OutInAPout

    I’m extremely fair skinned and have tried around 15 BBs, all Asian brands. By far, the fairest shade I’ve seen is Missha Perfect Cover in #13 (Milky Beige).

    I know you suggest Clinique’s BB for fair skin, but I have to say that unless their BB is several shades lighter than their fairest foundation, it probably won’t work for the truly…erm…pigment deprived amongst us (I’ve never found a Clinique foundation that was fair enough for me- the fairest shades in their range are generally 3-4 shades too dark!)

    Just for reference, if anyone’s curious, my best foundation match is Nars Siberia or Graftobian Bombshell (in “MACenese” that would be about an NC/W 05).

  • Red_is_read

    I haven’t found one pale enough for me, I’m not a vampire though! I guess in time more shades will come out to suit all tones.

  • Little_vick05

    Any info on the 4 shades for the Too Faced BB creams?? I’m kinda light complected, kinda not. I got the nude. Now I’m scared. (Live in the middle of nowhere, quite literally. Nearest Wal-Mart is 65 miles away, and its an over night trip to make it anywhere near a mall) So I have to do a lot of guess work when it comes to make-up.

  • http://www.liannefarbes.com/about Lianne

     I will swatch them for you if that helps….follow up post next week ;-)

  • http://www.liannefarbes.com/about Lianne

     Try the Clinique in Fair OR use Dr. Jart and mix your own foundation in ;-)

  • http://www.liannefarbes.com/about Lianne

     Hmmm thanks for the input.  I am testing some other brands next week (because surprise surprise many brands read my post and now want to be included) and I’ll have a followup post with some more shade ranges ;-)

  • Bird4t

    I made the homemade cream as per the video. It worked very well the first couple of days. After that, I noticed the oils in the lotions separated. I guess you have to stir daily? Again, worked very well,though.

  • http://www.themakeupgirl.net/about Lianne Farbes

    I would think that you would have to mix it up daily just to make sure all the ingredients stay together. Recently, I have taken to mixing the following in my palm: Tinted moisturizer, skincare serum (any kind will do), primer and luminizer. Make the tinted moisturizer the largest amt and smaller amts of the other ingredients. Love it!

  • http://www.liannefarbes.com/about Lianne

    yeah I would suggest mixing it up a bit every time you use it. I tend to just do it in the palm of my hand each time. I start with a squiggle of tinted moisturizer and then add a little serum, primer and illuminator.