I remember the first time I saw an Issey Miyake design up close. It was 1986 and I was going to college in New York City. I marveled at the pleats and how the fabric draped, this was like nothing I had seen before growing up in the mid-west. 27 years later (ACK!) here I am again talking about Issey Miyake!! The pleated garments have inspired him again this time in the way of fragrance.
Based on his iconic Pleats Please Issey Miyake line of women’s ready-to-wear creations, Pleats Please Eau de Toilette embraces the freedom, color and movement that have made the Pleats Please line so beloved by women around the world. Following the original L’Eau d’Issey in 1992, Le Feu d’Issey in 1998, and L’Eau d’Issey Florale in 2010, the Pleats Please fragrance marks the designer’s latest collaboration with Beauté Prestige International, the Paris-based fragrance division of the Shiseido Cosmetics Corporation. I had the chance to see this fragrance and some fabulous Issey Miyake clothing up close and personal this past December. I also had a little history lesson on the brand which was FABULOUS (I love knowing the background on things…)
Pleats Please was born from experimentation; ultimately becoming a line of clothing that was at once easy to wear and simple to maintain – timeless, creative and original. Today, this iconic look, the emblem and essence of Issey Miyake’s identity, has its counterpart in a fragrance.
To capture the character of Pleats Please, perfumer Aurélien Guichard composed a bright and cheerful scent. The top note opens with the intriguing aroma of nashi, a hybrid fruit that oscillates between pear and apple (YUM! SUPER fruity but not overly so). The middle note is comprised of fresh peony and sweet pea. Indole (which is a manmade scent used to add complexity to fragrances) adds a fleshly, voluptuous touch and “gives substance to the note”, the perfumer explains. The accord is warm and vibrant, like “an invitation to fluidity”. Finally, the base note prolongs the sensation of mildness, settling into the rich woody notes of cedar while patchouli, taking on a vertical character, permeates the composition. Sweet, sensuous vanilla infuses the trail with radiant warmth. An absolute of creamy “white vanilla” blends with cozy white musks for a mellow finish. A lovely combination that is not overly fruity or floral….a perfect match.
To create a bottle that interprets the image of the pleat, the geometrical spirit of the famous Bao Bao Issey Miyake bag (I love this bag!!) seemed the obvious choice. Just like the iconic bag, the ridges stand out on the glass bottle in an interplay of convex and concave panels. There are no bright colors, just subtle highlights enlivened by the pink-tinged fragrance. The cap takes the form of a floral calyx, a finely pleated abstraction that symbolizes both a white flower and the Pleats Please fabric.
This is truly a collaboration that integrates the fashion and clothes into the design of the fragrance….bravo.
- Eau de Toilette Spray in two sizes: 1.6 oz (SRP $66.00 USD) and 3.3oz (SRP $92.00 USD)
- Moisturizing Body Lotion in a 5.2 oz tube (SRP $40.00 USD).
The Pleats Please collection will be available exclusively at Nordstrom and Nordstrom.com.